Traffic Chaos & Boda Boda Madness

Now that I have "settled" back to routine, I have taken some time to reflect on my travel to both NBO (Nairobi) and EBB (Entebbe). It's only fair that I echo Ssem's post on traffic madness in Nairobi. I didn't think it was happening until I realized that I was right in the middle of it. How could I be stuck in traffic for 3 hrs between Ngong Rd and Kahawa Sukari? How could a (2) lane in Thika Rd turn into a (6) lane California highway? Distaste and loathing is just an understatement.

First I became really upset and lost my cool, then I accepted the situation of being helpless and finally, three hours later, I flowed with the traffic. I have been stuck in traffic many, many times before on Route 80, 46 etc etc... But this Thika Rd jam is entirely different. It's outright scary. I guess it's an accepted norm that matatus and buses have the right of way, every time. They'll cut you off, stick their hands out (directional signals) and yell at you. At one point, several matatus overlapped to on coming traffic and 'created' another lane. If this is not insane, I don't know what it is. Yet matatu passengers cheer this behavior because they can get to work or home 'on time'.

I wondered whether any Kenyan politicians used any of these roads - Thika, Mombasa, Uhuru Highway etc etc. Doesn't it bug anyone at the Nairobi Metropolitan Dev Ministry on the future of Nairobi and it's environs? How many times can they be told about upgrading infrastructure, transport and utilities? I guess, asking these questions is moot.

How about the traffic police? you ask. All matatus give tithe. On the Bahati-Nakuru road PSVs tithe Ksh.50.00 per trip between 8a and 2p. On the Kiambu - Nairobi road it's Ksh. 100.00. You can name any other route in the country and the claim is the same. The consequences of not tithing is business suicide. And after all that headache, matatu drivers on average get paid Ksh. 500.00 a day, yet police officers collect thousands to share with their superiors. Its common knowledge that the traffic police is extremely corrupt, but who cares?

How about EMS? Road accidents in Kenya claim thousands of deaths a year. In fact there is a statistic that all worldwide airline deaths combined in a year account for less than road deaths in Kenya. Many are the tales of non existent emergency medical services. On my way to Nakuru on August 24th we found an accident involving a Kampala bus coach and a pick-up. A mob was controlling traffic and shoving the injured onto someone else's pick up who was forced to bring them to the hospital. Such a mob usually turns rowdy and can do anything they want. Health care services is another story.

How about boda boda in Kampala? I would have wanted to say that they are only handful: but they are thousands. I don't know how this city ended up with these many motorcycles. I was only there for two days and I got a headache. What was inspiring is seeing some mzungus riding on these boda bodas ( I guess it's a much better way of travelling around the town). Perhaps PKW has a better version of this mode of transport.

I really don't want to sound as if I am whining and portray this picture of hopelessness. There are many good people and many good things happening in these countries. I sensed a lot of frustration with government institutions and lack of efficient systems.